NYFW Fall 2013: Andrea Diodati

On my last day of NYFW I was invited for a fashion show put on by The Sundance Channel's "All on the Line" star Andrea Diodati. It was a show inspired by vintage cheerleaders and the a white winter blizzard.  The collection titled "The White Fall" was a great way for me to close out fashion week because it was a nice getaway from the circus that Lincoln Center has become and just different from Milk Studios. The show was held offsite at the most unusual of locations - a church chapel.

Attendees sipped sparkling pink lemonade and snacked on white cotton candy while they chatted while sitting in the pews. Live musicians singing and playing the violin and fresh cut flowers set the mood.

NYFW Fall 2013: Alexandre Herchcovitch

I had the chance to return to Milk Studios for Alexander Herchcovitch's runway show on Saturday night to a full house. The room was packed as the lights dimmed. The looks sort of floated into the room as all eyes were fixated on the stage and a hush came over the bustling crowd. Sculptural skirts that had a surprisingly light quality to them in spite of being created in satins. There was a sense of romance yet modernity but simultaneously there was an underlying eerie quality to the designs as well.

The inspiration came from flowers but not in the way that one would typically think. Sure there were have done it. The models themselves became the flowers and you could see the flowers going through all the stages from young bud to the shedding of petals. The shedding was most interesting to me upon closer examination I realized that the shedding is actually not assymetry but how the garments have been designed to be deconstructed. She's come undone and is revealing some sexy lingerie inspired pieces.

NYFW Fall 2013: Katya Leonovich

The Russian designer Katya Leonovich presented her runway show at The Studio at Lincoln Center on Saturday morning with the strong beats of Led Zeppelin's Kashmir pounding the models hit the catwalk with vigor.

The designer best known for her love of beautiful garbage and use of couture techniques presented a collection that had a deep sea feel to it - the colors were primarily swirling shades of blue and black. The black elements relied heavily on texture while the blue swirling prints were most likely created as a direct result of the designer's paintings. Some dresses were carefully edged in faux fur while on other pieces origami draping and the addition of python added visual interest. Mongolian goat fur trim was used on some of the leather pieces for dramatic and luxe effect.

NYFW Fall 2013: Erin Barr

I made it just in the nick of time for the Erin Barr show after running crosstown and trying to hail a cab for almost half an hour and almost getting hit by a car in the process. I made it downtown to Chelsea Piers and my feet hurt, my heart was pounding and I ran in just as the lights dimmed to begin the show. I was so glad to have made it to see the Wisconsin native make-up artist turned designer in her fourth season.


This collection was all about the modern sexy strong woman with body con dresses, strategic cut outs and slits, zip off components and sexy slits. The cut outs were placed in interesting places at the midriff, in the back - the slightest peeks of skin creating a sexy and subtle newness.

NYFW Fall 2013: Costello Tagliapietra

I got to kick of my NYFW by attending the Costello Tagliapietra show at Milk Studios. My favorite designer duo Jeffrey Costello and Robert Tagliapietra, affectionately known as the Fashion Bears, created another beautiful collection while the Misshapes spun tunes and the fearless Kate Lanphear was spotted again.

This time around the inspiration for the collection came in the form of aerial maps, topographic lines and the floral-like energy that they take on. These images were used as tools that were superimposed on the human form and recreated through drape and patterning.

The results were dresses that had a 40s sort of glamor to them. There was a coziness to the collection thanks to the addition of alpaca teddybear knits that were carefully knit with leaf patterns that from a distance resemble a chunky cable. The alpaca teddybear, if the name of the fabric wasn't adorable enough made for some gorgeous little capelets.

NYFW Runway Review: The Blonds

The final show I attended of NYFW was the loudest as Milk Studios was overtaken by the downtown cool kids strutting their most outrageous outfits.  Before the show even began I saw Spike Hair, furry monster get-up, angel wings and one topless bathing suit paired with tassle  pasties.  Celebs like Stacy London, Nigel Barker, Miss J Alexander, Jay Manuel, Robert Verdi were enjoying themselves and posing for photos as everyone strutted their best stuff. The energy and over the top exuberance had me not knowing where to look and I scarcely noticed the electric motorcycle on the runway that was deeply connected to the theme of the show.  Right before the show began there was a sudden flurry of activity as Lil Kim made her way into the room.

NYFW Runway Review: Farah Angsana Fall 2012

The Farah Angsana Fall 2012 collection exuded exactly the type of luxury that the young jet set socialite might demand. Opulence, sparkle and drama dominated the runway - this is not clothing for the faint of heart or for those who like to hide in a corner at an event.  If fashion should be about empowering a woman to feel beautiful and glamorous - Farah Angsana has found strength in what she knows best.  Afterall the designer caters to women who like herself travel the world and you could see hints of the global influence in the kaftans to flamenco flounces.
 

NYFW Presentation: Lorena Sarbu Fall 2012

Waking up on a Sunday morning is always a challenge and hauling myself to Lincoln Center for 10:30am from Brooklyn took a bit of convincing but once I arrived I was pleasantly surprised by Lorena Sarbu's collection of glamorous special occasion frocks that would look perfectly at ease on any Hollywood red carpet.

Runway Review: Sally LaPointe Fall 2012

I have had the privilege of watching Sally LaPointe grow as a designer over the last few seasons from ethereal alien beauty that defied human proportions to a softer hauntingly romantic view.  This season brought Sally LaPointe's architectural expertise in conjunction with softer less dramatic shapes resulting in a collection that is more commercial than previous efforts.

LaPointe's vision carefully balances the dark beauty that I have come to love with wearable pieces that I need in my closet

The scene is set with beautiful ombre rust tone walls and industrial looking pillars while experimental tracks are playing that begin to weave in the sounds of violins.

The collection started with a clean slate in head to toe cream perhaps to wipe our minds of anything that we might expect the designer to bring to the table.  Fortunately LaPointe's expertise with structure and proportion served her well to create designs that are simple yet striking.  The architectural elements that I've come to love like dramatic shoulders, extended peplums and cape-like sleeves are still there and the softness that last season brought is still present but there is a new slouchy/ease in some of the separates that ooze confidence and a designer coming into her own.

The designer cited Kafka the Metamorphosis highlighting the feeling of neglect and isolation as the inspiration for this collection.  And you can see a slow metamorphosis in the color palette for this collection from white to blue to ombre, to dripping gold to burgundy to chocolate brown to finally black.  There is also a change from lady-like to glamourous to sportswear to vamp.  Some of the shapes in the collection were vaguely reminiscent of cocoons and insect wings.

Soon warm tones of gold, amber, rust, burgundy and chocolate flood the stage bringing with it a new level richness and refined sophistication.  While there wasn't much print in this collection the ombre print that looked like a sunset about to burst into flames was unforgettable.  I also couldn't keep my eyes off the amazing graphic cut-out applique that created a dramatic large scale lace effect. The collection in my mind screamed luxury and I loved every minute of it.