I had the chance to return to Milk Studios for Alexander Herchcovitch's runway show on Saturday night to a full house. The room was packed as the lights dimmed. The looks sort of floated into the room as all eyes were fixated on the stage and a hush came over the bustling crowd. Sculptural skirts that had a surprisingly light quality to them in spite of being created in satins. There was a sense of romance yet modernity but simultaneously there was an underlying eerie quality to the designs as well.
The inspiration came from flowers but not in the way that one would typically think. Sure there were have done it. The models themselves became the flowers and you could see the flowers going through all the stages from young bud to the shedding of petals. The shedding was most interesting to me upon closer examination I realized that the shedding is actually not assymetry but how the garments have been designed to be deconstructed. She's come undone and is revealing some sexy lingerie inspired pieces.
My favorite creations were those that had the play of stripes and a strong use of assymetry that was unexpected but well balanced. Peplums, elbow length sleeves, soft hips, hemlines that hit just below the knee, tailored bodices sloped shoulders are some of the key elements of this collection.
Herchcovitch's strength comes from his signature pattern-cutting experiments combined with sophisticated fabrics and shapes for a striking collection that transforms women into blooms from an exotic garden. Delicate but simultaneously powerful.