Runway Review: Sally LaPointe Fall 2012

I have had the privilege of watching Sally LaPointe grow as a designer over the last few seasons from ethereal alien beauty that defied human proportions to a softer hauntingly romantic view.  This season brought Sally LaPointe's architectural expertise in conjunction with softer less dramatic shapes resulting in a collection that is more commercial than previous efforts.

LaPointe's vision carefully balances the dark beauty that I have come to love with wearable pieces that I need in my closet

The scene is set with beautiful ombre rust tone walls and industrial looking pillars while experimental tracks are playing that begin to weave in the sounds of violins.

The collection started with a clean slate in head to toe cream perhaps to wipe our minds of anything that we might expect the designer to bring to the table.  Fortunately LaPointe's expertise with structure and proportion served her well to create designs that are simple yet striking.  The architectural elements that I've come to love like dramatic shoulders, extended peplums and cape-like sleeves are still there and the softness that last season brought is still present but there is a new slouchy/ease in some of the separates that ooze confidence and a designer coming into her own.

The designer cited Kafka the Metamorphosis highlighting the feeling of neglect and isolation as the inspiration for this collection.  And you can see a slow metamorphosis in the color palette for this collection from white to blue to ombre, to dripping gold to burgundy to chocolate brown to finally black.  There is also a change from lady-like to glamourous to sportswear to vamp.  Some of the shapes in the collection were vaguely reminiscent of cocoons and insect wings.

Soon warm tones of gold, amber, rust, burgundy and chocolate flood the stage bringing with it a new level richness and refined sophistication.  While there wasn't much print in this collection the ombre print that looked like a sunset about to burst into flames was unforgettable.  I also couldn't keep my eyes off the amazing graphic cut-out applique that created a dramatic large scale lace effect. The collection in my mind screamed luxury and I loved every minute of it. 

NYFW: Sally LaPointe Spring 2012

A must on my NYFW calendar since her debut in Spring 2011 is the ever-talented Sally LaPointe who has been so critically lauded and landed on just about every “designer-to-watch” list around this season.  I arrived and Center 548 via freight elevator from the seat and was greeted by a large spacious room that included lit doorways with chandeliers hanging in the background.

The 27-year old NYC based designer has talent to spare and her Spring 2012 collection was a marked departure from some of her past season offerings that were darker, sharper and outer-worldly.  This season brought out an evolution in design with a softer, more romantic approach.  The resulting effect is ethereal and dreamy – soft pinks, the palest of seafoam green and acid yellow become almost soothing amongst the metallic tones. 

Sample Sales This Week: April 18-23, 2011

Who:Vivienne Westwood and Malo Private Sale
What: 60-80% off clothing for men and women. Cashmere, knitwear, accessories, jewelry and shoes. Credit Cards ONLY. No strollers or children under 12.
When: April 17-22, 2011. Sun-Fri 9am-6pm
Where: 20 West 36th St, 6th Floor (b/n 5th & 6th Ave) 646-257-2666

Who: Earnest Sewn Sample Sale
What: Their FB page says there will be some "amazing samples this time around..." Last sale had jeans at under $100.
When: April 16-24, 2011. Sat-Sun 10am-8pm.
Where: 821 Washington St, 2nd Floor (b/n Little West 12th St & Gansevoort)

Who: Haute Hippie Sample Sale
What: They are cleaning out the closet! The semi-annual sample sale will feature original samples, archival pieces, as well as stock from current seasons in various sizes!
When: April 18-22, Mon-Fri 10am-6pm
Where: 336 West 37th St, 15th Floor (b/n 8th and 9th Ave)

Who: Kico Kids, Petit Bateau, Jacadi Premium Children's Sample Sale
What: Up to 90% off retail on premium children's clothing and accessories. All sizes from newborn to 14 years old.
When: April 19-21, 2011. Thus-Thurs 10am-7pm
Where: Prive Space @ Chelsea Market, 75 9th Ave (b/n 15th & 16th St)

Who: Inhabit Sample Sale
What: Snag perfect tanks, tees and cotton basics for men and women. Tanks $30, was $127. Crew $50, was $168. V-nk Cardigan $50, was $242.
When: April 20-21, 2011. Wed-Thurs 10am-6pm
Where: 1441 Broadway, 28th Floor (at 41st St)


Who: Sally LaPointe Sample Sale
What: Up to 80% off the Fall/Winter 2010 collection - a chance to snag some avant garde runway pieces. 25% off on the Spring/Summer 2011 Collection.
When: April 21, 2011. Thurs 5-9pm
Where: Where: EVA NY, 355A Bowery (b/n 3rd & 4th St)

Sallly LaPointe Fall 2011

The Sally LaPointe show was at the end of a hectic day and I literally ran out of Lincoln Center just in time to grab a cab and make my way over to Eyebeam Studios in Chelsea.  The show was held on the 5th Floor and my legs didn’t feel like they could handle the hike at the end of the day.  So I crammed myself into a tiny 4-person at a time elevator.

Once I got to the show, I relaxed.  The room was spacious, open and there was a video streaming and creating interesting and serene patterns on the wall while red light bulbs suspended over small boxes of water created interesting lighting effects.  I was anticipating how these would work into creating a runway and was expecting the models to exit the brightly lit vault doors in a dramatic fashion like last season.

My assumptions were mistaken and the models entered this time from a different area in a quieter more darkly lit location with strong beams of light hitting the models at precise moments on the runway. Fortunately for me I had a good view of the action and was able to snag some great shots just before the models turned onto darker parts of the winding runway path.

This season, the show was presented in fields of color which created almost head to toe looks that made for eerily tall and almost inhuman models.

First came white/silver grey, then red, turquoise/grey looks and a series of black looks that framed the finale outfit of floaty red hair/fuzz all the more intense.  All that red hair me thinking a little bit of Margiela.  Texture is of utmost importance and I love that it is so well displayed throughout all of Ms. LaPointe’s designs.

For Sally La Pointe, strong angular shoulders dominated most of the looks. At times almost taking the appearance of modern day protective armor and adding an architectural look to the collection. Fortunately softness was added back to the collection in the form of soft draping and fur.  Particularly in in fabrics so shiny that they often look like liquid metal.  Pants took two forms – either as tight as leggings or as soft gently ballooning pants that created for a very new looking wedge silhouette.  In counterbalance, stiff peplums paired with strong shoulders made for several futuristic hourglass silhouettes.

I thought that although many prints weren’t used, they were very effective because the strategic placement of the prints created a lot of optical interest.  My fave look is on the bottom end of the above photos.

Accessories this season become minimal.  The shoes that were so attention grabbing last round were still insanely high but they were a sleeker kind of clunky with not as much going on and not to detract from the clothes, but instead become an extension of them.  Hair was kept simple in harsh parts that were matted straight down.

Every show I am of Ms LaPointe’s somehow energizes me.  Her ability to paint a futuristic world that I want to be a part of never ceases to please.

NYFW Spring 2011: Sally LaPointe

The last show of an amazing but busy weekend, it was one of the shows in our NYFW itinerary that I was looking forward to the most. I love supporting young designers, and Sally LaPointe is no exception. It’s her debut runway show at NYFW and the buzz and excitement surrounding her show was enormous. Thanks to our friend Tony Wang of Post.Fashionism, we got to have a look backstage before the show began and it’s a busy but surprisingly calm scene. Models are getting hair and make up done while snacking on fruit salad. Looks like it’s all about blush and straight pulled back hair with volume pumped roots.

And then I spot something curious, it’s a light box that is being tested but for what purpose I still do not know.

We scramble back downstairs and grab our seats in a full house that is chock full of anticipation and cinder blocks placed in a grid like pattern. The room goes silent and in the most dramatic show opening I’ve seen this NYFW 2 men open the doors and that light box is shining. The debut runway show of Sally LaPointe begins with mist rising and intrigue growing. The models weave around the room and cinder blocks to create a show that effectively showcases the designs from every angle.

The models no longer look human - all that is left are defiantly tall creatures that command a room with their stork-like proportions. I can only marvel at the incredible height that is only emphasized further by slim column-like silhouettes in maxi lengths, floor skimming trousers and some the most insanely over-the-top shoes I have ever seen firsthand.

In these shoes your legs will go on forever and there is nary an empty surface area to be found.

Actually these shoes were quite the contrast to the flatter textures of the collection that focuses more on clean silhouette, the fabrics themselves and the play between metallic and matte. The color palette was simple in a variety of textures and opacities of black and white, I found that I was able to focus more on the variety of shapes. Iridescent fabrications were key. Soft crinkle fabrics are molded sculptural silhouettes and the shoulder is for most part strong and squared off throughout the collection. Necklines are either focused on sculptural collars or plunging.

There are plenty of graphic abstract prints in iridescent prints that remind me of inkblots throughout the collection. I couldn’t quite figure out what any of the shapes were but I don’t mind that they were mysterious.

As quickly as the show began, the show ended with the models in mist and the doors closing. I am thoroughly impressed and I wonder how this will translate for retail. I hope that her vision doesn’t change too much as I admire her raw, unique point-of-view.

I run backstage to say hello but don’t want to interrupt when her overjoyed and very proud family make the seen and I find myself feeling like I am spying on a very intimate and personal moment for the designer. I quietly make my leave as all things wrap up and silently wish her congratulations for a dramatic, well conceived effort from Ms LaPointe. Undoubtedly one of my fave shows this NYFW, I am glad i got to witness it from A to Z.