Monday, February 11, 2013
NYFW Fall 2013: Katya Leonovich
The Russian designer Katya Leonovich presented her runway show at The Studio at Lincoln Center on Saturday morning with the strong beats of Led Zeppelin's Kashmir pounding the models hit the catwalk with vigor.
The designer best known for her love of beautiful garbage and use of couture techniques presented a collection that had a deep sea feel to it - the colors were primarily swirling shades of blue and black. The black elements relied heavily on texture while the blue swirling prints were most likely created as a direct result of the designer's paintings. Some dresses were carefully edged in faux fur while on other pieces origami draping and the addition of python added visual interest. Mongolian goat fur trim was used on some of the leather pieces for dramatic and luxe effect.
My personal favorite pieces were the belted tunic, the great printed blue jacket, the black leather mini dress and the multi colored blue dress.
As for the beauty looks they were very down to earth - a sort of humble beauty with nude lips, soft smoky eyes and the hair styles of disheveled crowns of hair on each model.
Compared to previous collections this one came across to me as more down to earth and wearable. There is a softness to the shoulders, fabrications seem more tactile and the warrior-like harshness has toned back to be sharp and more comfortable. It is really nice to see the new level of sophistication that in a few short seasons I've had the chance to witness. As the designer continues to evolve it will be really interesting to see where she will go from here.