Runway Review: Dior Couture Spring 2012

The house of Dior still lives with or without the scandal that is John Galliano and in his second couture collection for the house Bill Gaytten has done a marvelous job of capturing the spirit of Dior with so many references to the past without being stuck there. Classic Dior silhouettes that make a woman feel like a woman – like the New Look of 1947 are in abundance but they are made fresh again being whipped together in translucent fabrics.  It’s almost like you’re have X-ray vision into something that from a glance should be very lady-like and the effect is quite provocative.

One of my favorite pieces is actually this tucked sheath on the very right that almost looks like pattern drafting coming to life with it’s almost muslin color and bold pick stitches.  I guess seeing the art of patternmaking dissected is very appealing to me.  As for color palette the collection was predominantly black, white and nude with a few pops of red and violet. Although monochromatic and without pattern I thought it was the best possible showcase for what Gaytten was trying to achieve.  Bravo for a collection well done.

Pre-Spring 2011 Trends: Diamond Motifs

Dior, Doo-Ri

Versace, Stella McCartney

For Pre-Spring 2011, animal prints from leopard to snake continue, as do plaid galore but something a little more out of the ordinary I noticed was a Diamond Motif.  At Dior and Versace they paired the look with other prints for a bold and very au courante mixed print effect but for a subtler statement at Stella McCartney and Doo.ri the print was paired with a solid to make the focal point all about the print.  Interestingly enough I noticed that at Dior and Doo.ri used all-over pattern in similar feminine soft pinks, nudes paired with grey and black while at Versace and Stella McCartney they both incorporated green and black for a bolder singular focus.

Would you wear a diamond motif or does it make you think of Harlequin Clowns?

Trends: The Big Tease

I was looking at the Dior cruise collection this morning and I noticed that the 60s styling and it's time for us to bring back the pink but I couldn't help but be fascinated by the great big hair on every model! In fact it was virtually identical to the hair Rochas had in Fall 2010 collection.

What can I say except the bouffant look has me reaching for the nearest comb and ready to tease the heck out of it. The bigger the hair the more confidence a woman has! Sexy, demure perfection or better left in the past? Woud you wear this look?

Would You Wear: Grey Hair?

Sometimes on the runways there are some outrageous trends that I don't quite understand. Perhaps this one is slightly counter-intuitive and that's why I kind of like it! I mean in an industry that always embraces youth, seeing young girls with grey hair is kind of fun. Both Dior and Chanel Couture Spring 2010 had variations of the look. At Dior Couture the look was all vamp paired with red lips and cat eyeliner. At Chanel, it was more going hand in hand with the touch of silver seen throughout the collection and it ended up looking more cutesy than anything else. For me it evokes a sort of fantasy tale...a bit of Rogue in X-men or what I picture Annabeth in Percy & the Olympians to look like after book 3 (recent guilty pleasure!)

Time perhaps to embrace those streaks? Or do you think this one is too costumey to pull off?

UPDATED More Sample Sales this Week: NYC

If yesterday's sales weren't enough here are some more! Let us know if you stop by anything and get any awesome deals or if you think a sale isn't worth your time :)

Who: Giles & Brother
What: Save up to 80% off retail at this jewelry Sample Sale! The sale will feature old favorites and new treasures. Cash ONLY.
When: December 3-4, Thurs & Fri 11am-7pm
Where: 147 West 29th Street - 2nd floor (between 6th and 7th Ave.)

Who: Vanessa Noel
What: 50% to 70% off sample and stock footwear. Now $200 to $2,250 (retail $525 to $7,500). Also a closeout selection of 30 styles of white satin shoes to be dyed reduced from $525 to $50.
When: Now through Monday, December 14, 2009. Mon—Fri 10am—6pm, Sat 11am—6pm, Sun closed.
Where: 158 East 64 St (b/n Lexington and Third Aves) (212-906-0055)

Who: Multi Designer Sale
What: Womens and Mens Clothing & Accessories from fall/holiday 2009 collections including Cavalli, Dior, Versace, Galliano, Gianfranco Ferre, Ungaro, Gucci, YSL, Roccobarocco, Dolce & Gabanna. 80% off retail. Try-ons permitted in their attended fitting rooms. All sizes available
When: December 1-6, 2009. Tues-Sun 11am-7pm
Where: 39 West 56 Street(b/n 5-6 Avenues) 4th Floor. 212.935.2670

Who: G-III Apparel Group
What: Major outerwear sale on jackets, coats in leather, wool, cashmere, down and denim from Kenneth Cole, Guess?, Izod, Siena Studio, Nine West, Jones, Sean John, Ellen Tracy, Black Rivet, LNR, and Winlit.
When: Now through December 18, 2009. Mon-Fri 10am-7pm
Where: 241 West 37 Street( b/n 7th & 8th Avenues) Ground Floor. 212.403.0500

Who: Boutique on 57
What: Kiton, Zegna, Brunello Cucinelli Sample Sale. Women's & men's ready to wear, accessories, shoes, and jewelry. All up to 75% off. Women's sizes 0-12, Men's size 36-45. Try-ons permitted. Boutique on 57 guarantees 100% of all items authenticity.
When: December 2-4, 2009. Wed-Fri 10am-7pm
Where: 12 West 57 Street(b/n 5th & 6th Avenues) Suite 807. 212.247.2229

Who: Joseph Abboud Sample Sale
What: Samples and overstock at up to 80% off suggested retail prices. The largest selection of men’s sportswear and tailored clothing including suits, sportcoats, jackets, trousers, pants, sweaters, knits, sport shirts, dress shirts and more. All sizes. Credit Card only.
When: December 2-5, 2009. Wed-Fri 11am-7pm, Sat 10am-6pm
Where: The Altman Building.135 West 18 Street(b/n 6th & 7th Avenues) Ground Floor

Who: Tocca
What: 60-85% off clothing for women and children and beauty products/candles
When: December 2-4, 2009. Wed-Fri 11:30am-7:30pm
Where: 542 West 22nd St between Tenth and Eleventh Aves (no phone)

More Sales Via Daily Candy:
What: Saks Bridal Sale
Why: Gowns from Vera Wang, Reem Acra, Monique Lhuillier, and more are 70 percent off.
When: Wed.-Sat., 10 a.m.-8:30 p.m.; Sun., 10 a.m.-8 p.m.
Where: 611 Fifth Ave., b/t 49th & 50th Sts., 9th flr.

What: Derek Lam
Why: Save 60-80 percent off current season’s shoes, bags, and clothes.
When: Thurs. & Fri., 10 a.m.-6 p.m.
Where: 601 W. 26th St., b/t Eleventh & Twelfth Aves., ste. 1730.

What: Tuleste Market
Why: Snap up gifts like slinky chains and statement earrings for $10-$60.
When: Thurs. & Fri., 1-7 p.m.
Where: 3 Steps, 322 Second Ave., b/t 18th & 19th Sts.

What: Theory
Why: Famously flattering pants are $99; coats are $199 or less.
When: Fri.-Dec. 9. Fri. & Mon.-Wed., 11 a.m.-7 p.m.; Sat. & Sun., 11 a.m.-5 p.m.
Where: 261 W. 36th St., b/t Seventh & Eighth Aves., 2nd flr. (212-947-8748).

Pantless Couture

At the end of April, I reported that pantlessness was on the rise thanks to Lady Gaga et al. but I never thought it would spread and make it's way into couture culture. While only the 2nd look is completely pantless, the other looks with the sheer skirts, pretty much allude to the same thing. While I think the sheer skirts are quite sexy and effective on the runway, not sure this can translate to real life and real thighs, Will this trend ever die?

Runway Review: Christian Dior Couture

John Galliano for Christian Dior Couture wanted to send a message with that people can still appreciate creativity. He tells Style.com that "it's our job to make people dream, and to provide the value in quality, cut, and imagination". I agree that in tough economic times, designers shouldn't cut back on creativity because people should always dream. It's the only way to survive and have hope to make it through desperate situations.

Galliano chose to use Monsier Dior and Flemish painters (Rembrant, Vermeer, Van Dyck) as inspiration for this collection. The Flemish painter inspiration can clearly be seen in the color palatte, sleeve silhouettes, lace and pearl detailing, hats and ruffles. While Monsieur Dior's inspiration can be seen in the very hour glass silhouette with full skirt reminiscent of the 50's New Look.

Black and white continue to be dominant, while soft blues, reds and muted gold tones were also strong. Skirts were either voluminous or slim with soft rounded hip volume. Sleeves were very full and soft or slim and chic. Sheen continues to be important with satins & taffetas adding luster. Multiple Ruffles and Bows lent a certain sweetness to the Historical references. There is a very lady-like and almost conservative look to this collection.

Overall, I felt like it was a strong collection, although I'm not sure how well full sleeves paired with full hips would work for most women. I also wasn't a fan of the oversized collars as they looked a little Mary Poppins/cartoon like, but it is couture and they do add drama.

Voluminous Sleeves, Rounded Hips

Three of my favourite looks from the collection


Painterley flowers remind me of tea cups

2 Very Different looks. Contrasting looks using historical references circa 1660's and combo florals.