NYFW Fall 2013: Rafael Cennamo

Rafael Cennamo is not a name I had heard much about before but after Saturday's presentation at The Box at Lincoln Center, he is a name I will remember. Too often people attach the word couture to there names when the reality of the brand has very little to do with couture but for Mr. Cennamo, he understood the word completely. His eveningwear line first launched in 2006 and he has since become a celebrity favorite. With looks like these, you really don't even have to question why.

The collection entitled 21 Shades of Gold was gilded art inspired by "the passage of time with the ornate and golden aura of The Hall of Mirrors" there was a very strong baroque influence of over the top opulence and grandeur in each and every single one of the dresses. And as the title implied gold was the dominating factor creating the opportunity to showcase an abundance of texture - from gold foil to textural knit yarns to guipure lace to mesh to fortuny pleated lamé and beyond.

Runway Review: Alexis Mabille Couture Spring 2012

The award for this couture week's best head pieces and most dramatic make-up definitely goes to Alexis Mabille with the bold rainbow of color parading down the runway in head to toe monochromatic looks and faces/headpieces to match.  It was as if Spring itself had come to life on the runway and the ladies were in full bloom.

The quote from Marcel Proust, "It is only women who do not know how to dress that are afraid of colors", was only too appropriate for a show that was built on the energy of color.

Lace panels/insets, cascading flounces and flutter sleeves created a very wearable, feminine and lady-like collection that was bold but not ground breaking.  There is something about the dresses that makes them look like the clothing of royalty and not of the Hollywood set although more than a couple pieces would probably make a statement on the red carpet.

Runway Review: Versace Couture Spring 2012

Versace Couture for Spring 2012 embodies what Donatella does best - glamour, drama and a second skin fit like no other.  The dresses are almost painted on some of the bodies of the models while futuristic, structural elements including slashes of metallic beading and architectural arches extend from the shoulders, hips and bust to emphasize the woman's body.

Runway Review: Dior Couture Spring 2012

The house of Dior still lives with or without the scandal that is John Galliano and in his second couture collection for the house Bill Gaytten has done a marvelous job of capturing the spirit of Dior with so many references to the past without being stuck there. Classic Dior silhouettes that make a woman feel like a woman – like the New Look of 1947 are in abundance but they are made fresh again being whipped together in translucent fabrics.  It’s almost like you’re have X-ray vision into something that from a glance should be very lady-like and the effect is quite provocative.

One of my favorite pieces is actually this tucked sheath on the very right that almost looks like pattern drafting coming to life with it’s almost muslin color and bold pick stitches.  I guess seeing the art of patternmaking dissected is very appealing to me.  As for color palette the collection was predominantly black, white and nude with a few pops of red and violet. Although monochromatic and without pattern I thought it was the best possible showcase for what Gaytten was trying to achieve.  Bravo for a collection well done.

Christian Dior Couture Spring 2011 vrs René Gruau

Christian Dior helped start day 1 of the Couture presentations with a bang.  John Galliano was greatly inspired by Fashion illustrator René Gruau.  And given Monsieur Gruau’s history with the house of Dior how could he not have been? Gruau and Christian Dior originally met while working at Le Figaro, the French newspaper, in 1936 and their friendship and work collaboration had Gruau creating illustrations for the House of Dior from 1947 until the 80s.

Gruau has been a personal favorite favorite illustrator of mine ever since I was in college.  I fell in love with the bold, vibrant use of line, color and intriguing composition. The illustrations are almost delicious to me, with not a single line wasted.  While I was on vacation in London I had the opportunity to catch the exhibit Dior Illustrated – René Gruau & the Line of Beauty at the Sommerset house.  My greatest regret is that I did not purchase the exhibition book at the time thinking I could later find it on Amazon.  Unfortunately I still haven’t been able to find it online.

Anyways, when I saw the Dior Couture show, I was delighted to be able to witness the way Galliano interpreted these illustrations into real life.  With bold volumes, feathers, luxe iconic details and even similar colors I really do feel like the collection is almost has a cartoon/illustrated quality to it.  Since I love Gruau, how could I not love this collection?  Perhaps in my spare time I will try and create my own interpretation of these designs as fashion illustrations.  I just thought I’d compare some of the illustrations to what came out on the runway.  I love how even one of the hats sort of reflected Gruau’s signature G.  Bravo Dior!