Runway Review: Gareth Pugh Fall 2009 RTW Video

When I heard that Gareth Pugh's Autumn/Winter 2009 presentation was going to be via video, I was a little weary. But this video was actually quite artistically made and beautiful to watch. Also, it makes fashion seem more accessible to know that it went live at the same time that editors in Paris were watching it, it became available on SHOWstudio.com

The video is sort of creepy, especially with the sound track and the model Natasa Vojnovic looked impossible skinny, tall and unreal. She sort of reminded me of the White Queen in the Chronicles of Narnia. The most interesting part of the video was the incredible degree of movement and transformation it lent the clothing. It matched the sinister nature of the Rorschach inkblot that scrawled slowly across the screen.

As for the clothes themselves, they were limited to a simple palette of black and metallic pewter, a Pugh favorite. The black was made interesting in the varying degrees of texture, whether it be sheer, pleated, matte, shiny, fluffy or embedded with what appears to be thousands of pin heads (DANGER!).

Shoulders continue to be important but the shoulders are a bit softer and more rounded with a top heavy inverted triangle silhouette on some items, but also the reverse trapeze effect on others. Pants are sometimes skin tight, but other times belled out.

The pewter with black lent a very futuristic mood towards the close of the show. Below are my two favorite dresses, as they seem to be surprisingly wearable and they remind me faintly of The Jetsons.

Runway Review - John Galliano

John Galliano produced a beautiful collection of very wearable pieces. He kept the drama to the theatrical headpieces that are referential to various figures and icons in British history. The initial hats reminded me of the Guards at Buckingham palace especially when paired with the red of the first couple of looks.
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Sheer ruffles shown in multiple tiers was the most important design detail. This element was shown in skirts and dresses throughout the collection.
There were a number of draped goddess like dresses shown as well.
The prints were mostly floral based. Ranging from washed out watercolor florals, British dinner service based prints and perhaps my favorite of all, a print that looked like a kaleidoscope garden.Colors varied from a black, red & vibrant pink at the beggining of the collection to soft yellow ochre, and softer dustier colors blues and pinks and finishing in pale tints of color w/ sheer cobalt blue thrown in the mix.
The show closed in a number of full length maxi dresses, proving that perhaps they will be around for another year. After all the runway antics of seasons past, it's nice to see John Galliano without the gimmicks proving that you just need good design to make people pay attention. Many red carpet worthy gowns here.

Return of the King

King Karl returns to New York this weekend in time for the opening of Chanel’s Mobil Art Exhibit in Central Park to the public.

Chanel commissioned British architect Zaha Hadid to create a travelling structure that will house art by contemporary artists. The art is to all be inspired by Chanel’s ubiquitous 2.55 quilted handbag. (In case you are wondering the name if the handbag comes from the issue date of February 1955). There will be 20 international artists showcased including: Daniel Buren, Blue Noses, David Levinthal, Fabrice Hyber, Lee Bul, Nobuyoshi Araki, Soju Tao, Sophie Calle and more.

Admission to the exhibition in Central Park will be free, although visitors should be aware that you must visit the on-site ticket booth for limited same day ticketing from October 22- November 9, 2008. For more info visit chanel-mobileart.com

Location in Central Park
P.S. The Chanel Mobil Art Exhibit has already made stops in Hong Kong and Tokyo, but will soon be headed to London (May 2009), Moscow (Oct 2009) and finally Paris (Feb 2010).

*Mobil Exhibit Photos and Map via NY Times

Runway Review - Nina Ricci

Nina Ricci’s Collection by Olivier Theyskens had an ethereal feeling. It was a collection about understated romance as he continued to explore a theme that he so loves, Edwardian/Victorian.

Sheerness was definitely key, as most dresses sent down the runway can testify. The sheerness was seen in layers of fabric that created floaty hems on a high-low cut that was featured on virtually every dress. Nude tones were the most important with some washed out yellow, blue and grey tones. There was one outfit with an injection of persimmon and two that were simply black, but they were definitely not making a statement.

There was of course attention to high collars, voluminous shoulders and full leg of mutton sleeves. I almost felt like I had escaped to a world of Disney Princesses.

Gentle floral patterns that look aged and softly faded were the only pattern.
There was a small series of pajama like dressing with shorts seen here and a some jodphur pants, but everything else was all about dresses.
There isn't much to say about the accessories, except that I thought the toeless tights were interesting as were the sheer patched leggings w/ buttons on the side.

Overall this collection was very Olivier Theyskens, romantic, poetic, earthy and pretty but I had hoped for a little more newness.

Runway Review - Lanvin

When Alber Elbaz designs, the world watches. Despite his unassuming looks, he is one of the most influential designers of recent history. I wondered what he would bring to the table this season especially when noted that he had practicality in mind. “It’s more affordable to mix and match. It gives liberty and freedom to women.”

The show started in a series of separates as Elbaz's intentions stated.
What I noticed the most was the volume. The message was loud and clear. Volume at the Shoulders and Hips will definately be important. Although this silhouette is reminiscent of Balenciaga Spring 2008, it is softer and gentler ballooned shapes rather than structured and static. Elbaz, shows off his technical skills with simple fabrications in solid colors and minimal accessories. The black dress shown above, I think makes a statement, but I'm not sure it is meant to be worn by a real woman. He did offer plenty of other options and scales of volume.
I think some of the pieces would be great as separates but I don't like them necessarily styled together. I particularly like these high waisted skinny satin pants with the bow detail.Nude tones had a strong presence on the runway this season alongside Elbaz's signature jewel tones.Although this collection showed many rich jewel tones as did Lanvin Spring 2008, it was also different because these colors are richer and darker and shown in 2 and 3 tone color combinations. It was also shown in less floaty and a more controlled type of volume silhouettes.
The blue leopard print dress marked a slight change of pace for the last 8 looks of the collection. Bolder, brighter and sparklier than the rest of the collection.Some of the silhouettes were reminiscent of Resort 2009 but in a new crop of textures and colors.

The accesories started very simple and in nude tones at the beggining of the collection so not to distract. I like the neo-baroque style of the tonal plastic necklace and the simplicity of the satin heels but as a girl who loves the glitz was excited when the nude gave way to a burst of glittering, colorful chunky mass of rhinestones.I particularly love the sunglasses and these multi color pointy toe heels! Could pointy toe shoes be back?

Overall I have to give to Alber Elbaz for another strong collection. It wasn't a collection where everything spoke to my heart, but as he intended with the mix & match look, there are plenty of pieces that definitely do.

*Photos via Style.com and WWD.com