Wednesday, September 18, 2013

NYFW Spring 2014: Proenza Schouler

The designers behind Proenza Schouler never fail to win us over season after season with their sharp eye, graphic prints and well tailored pieces with an oft architectural hand.

Inspired by American mid-century modern furniture  design, you can see influences in the way they handle fabric and in turn the way the clothes hang on the body. Wide legged culottes, broomstick pleated skirts with bronze or gold foil swish around the legs. Carefully constructed pleat peplums pair with fitted cropped tops. Shoulders are soft and rounded while hemlines of both skirt and pant fall between the knee and ankle. Throughout the collection a feminine waist emphasis is consistent.

Wallpaper-like print, a jacket that resembles a shag rug, square metal hardware that borrows from furniture are where the inspiration is most obvious. Although it continues with subtler ways as well including how fabrics are printed almost to the edge like wall paper. The color palette was simple with black and  cream dominating the show with the addition of the colors wine red and goldenrod. There was also a heavy metallic presence with silver, gold and bronze accents and fabrics abounding.

This collection is softer than it's predecessors. The fresh change that an interest in draping brought about is both serene and absolutely winning.

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