Monday, September 26, 2011

NYFW Spring 2012: Katya Leonovich

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So after a slight misjudgment in when I would actually be able to wake up after a fun night at the VuQo vodka launch I literally woke up the morning of the Katya Leonovich without a moment to spare.  I woke up at 10:15am, the presentation was from 10:30-11:30am and after throwing on some clothes I was fighting against the clock and the MTA to make it from Brooklyn to the Lincoln Center.  And despite some initial set backs, somehow I made it with 15 minutes to spare.

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I tore up a path to The Box and relief sank in. The first thing I noticed was the interesting sport inspired color palette. The prints were as vibrant and lively as the back drop of illustrated American football players. Something about it brought to mind motion. Yellow, red, cobalt blue, white and turquoise seem to swirl together in chiffon to create softly voluminous puffs of dresses. Contrasting this was clean white leather that was sharply tailored and featuring both crisp cut-out details and self slashed fringe.

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Denim was carefully dyed, slashed and patched together creating optical effects that resembled some sort of armored shell. Organza was pleated to create architectural effects that reminded me of the exoskeleton of an insect.

Hair was styled in a deliberately messy sculptural shape. Make up was simple with barely stained red lips, dewy shadows on lids. The overall effect was confidence, a cartoonish/animated quality and a look that said, "Just try to mess with me". 

While in the wrong hands the results could have been utter chaos – Katya Leonovich somehow brought the chaos under the control of her watchful eye.  It’s an aesthetic that despite not coinciding with my personal taste, I can appreciate.

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