NYFW Spring 2014: Marc by Marc Jacobs

The Marc by Marc Jacobs runway show takes is back to the late 50s with it's neck kerchiefs, polka dots, bomber jackets, optical lines and pinstripes. The silhouette is the precursor to the 60s straighter silhouettes and shift type dresses rule the runway.

Suits of every kind found that way onto the runway in the form of traditional pinstripes, play suits and jump suits. Thanks to being layered with pinstripes and paired with sneakers the look remains casual. Linen, satin and sequins are all made casual too with the pairing over a plain white tee. Very fitting and youthful for the Marc by Marc customer.

Soft pastel pinks and baby blues are paired with their more vibrant counterparts of cherry red and marine. Neutral mouse beige, cream and black create a base for this collection.

Graphic color blocking continues and bold motifs like studded stars and lightning give the collection a dose of rock and roll.

Interestingly enough, every menswear outfit seemed to have a female counterpart. Is it a uniform vision for both men and women or a resurgence in the dreaded couple look?

Nevertheless the final results were refreshing and fun although nothing new under the sun.

NYFW Spring 2014: Costello Tagliapietra

The designers of Costello Tagliapietra have long been known as much for their personal style as they have been for their light handed approach to draping ultra-feminine dresses. This season they branched out of the their normal territory and made the collection a bit more personal by being inspired by their personal approach to dressing while introducing plenty of separates, handbags and shoes.

 

Naturally there was a nod to the plaid that they both love and have earned them the affectionate nickname of the Fashion Bears. However the plaid has been blurred out to it's most abstract form to create a softer print. The long cardigans they favor, button-up shirts, relaxed trousers and tailored jackets have all found their way into this collection. However this is not to say that this is a literal translation of the duos masculine style and there is no hint of hipster or 90s grunge present. It is more what the designer's vision of women borrowing from the boys might look like.

Don't think that this means the designers have given up on their first love of draping. There are feminine dresses a plenty. However this time around the silhouettes are less voluminous and more sleek.

The color palette of orange, aqua, baby blue, cobalt, olive, black and flame red lend a tropical feel to the collection. When it is layered and color blocked in many of the looks it becomes very striking.

Overall the results were successful in creating wearable, effortless, elegant clothing that is simultaneously modern and classic. I really appreciate how the designers have broadened their offerings, giving more choices to their customer and can't wait to see these pieces at retail.

NYFW Spring 2014: Kye

Kathleen Kye the South Korean designer behind the label Kye made her debut last season at Concept Korea, a platform that supports young designers of Korean descent.

This season Kye stuck out on her own and presented a collection inspired by pained youth. Featuring bandaids emblazoned in gold and other shiny colors throughout the collection. There was a definite streetwear bent but also a small dose of sophistication that was reminiscent of Margiela, including the sleeves that tie into a skirt and the slightly bondage-esque buckles. Baseball caps shown with all of the looks gave the collection a casual urban feel. Thigh high slits and cropped tops with exposed midriffs were prominent in the collection but manage to come across as surprisingly appropriate. I would be interested to see what happens with this young designer as she grows.

NYFW Spring 2014: Harbison

In just his second season, Charles Elliott Harbison is already making a buzz in the fashion world for his ability to bring together multiple influences with ease in his luxury collection.

For Spring 2014 collection, the tomboy style of the late singer Aaliyah, colors from Yves Klein are just a couple of the influences. Menswear fabrics, gingham and tribal inspired fabrics sound like an odd pairing but they all sit together nicely thanks to a uniform color palette of black and white with pops of red, gold and navy. The silhouettes are long and languid with silky wide leg pants and dresses that skim over the body.

There is something decidedly modern about the collection despite the classic wearable nature of many of the pieces. Perhaps it is the color blocking or the exposed midriffs. Or perhaps it is the refreshing revival of roomier shapes. Whatever it was it worked and Harbison will be a label to watch in the coming years.