Wednesday, September 15, 2010

NYFW Spring 2011: Z Spoke by Zac Posen

Here in the Theatre at Lincoln center the crowds are mounting as for the start of Z Spoke, photographers are taking pictures of front row celebs that we have yet to decipher. Devon Aoki is casually chatting with Jaime King, Leigh Lezark (?) is directly in front of us speaking animatedly to Michelle Trachtenberg. Clare Danes has entered the room to sit next to 90210’s Shenae Grimes. Kimora Lee & Russell Simons are seated front row and next to each other! Who else is here? Solange Knowles, Carmen Electra and Estelle. It’s a veritable celebrity circus, the likes of which we haven’t seen since the days before the recession began.Lani and I are both tweeting & typing furiously! I’m so relieved to have a seat because I can make use of my borrowed Vivienne Tam/HP digital clutch and can write about what I’m seeing as it’s happening instead of in recollection.Things must be looking up Mr. Posen as his only New York show is starting with a bang. The room is buzzing and flashbulbs are popping. The backdrop is set with architectural frames and Z Spoke glows in bright lights as the music starts. The show had a feeling of living large and living loud. However when you examine individual pieces they are quite wearable. The perfectly tailored little jackets, the flirty dresses and the slim cut trousers.

The inspiration behind the show? Posen says was "Three girls. We start with an intellectual. She's skinny, has a dog, and went to Sarah Lawrence. Then we have the English rose. She went to art school, loves classical music, and has a cat. And then there's our third girl. She's a fiery redhead and probably has a pet snake."

Whimsical fruit & smiling face prints made me smile back at the cutesy pineapples & melancholy apple. The trench coat above even features a watermelon slice broach!

Statement makeup focused on bold turquoise eyes and stained red lips. Hair was all about curls whether swept up in a twist, pony or wrapped up in high buns. As for the shoes? Sky high wedges and lace-ups are actually part of a collaboration between Posen and Steve Madden that had even the most experience models tottering.

Most notable accessory? The great sunglasses that are very pop happy in very round shapes that were sometimes accented with sparkle.

Coral tones and yellow were the predominant pop colors that were anchored nicely by black in a variety of finishes and denim chambray.

If you didn’t want denim pieces that are not jeans before, you will definitely want them now. Denim looked great in overcoats, trousers, and little shift dresses. The great thing about Posen is that he is able to balance the fine line that separates great feminine details and the cupcake-like (too sweet, too frilly). Soft touches such as a hint of ruffle, a little peplum, a little bow and hints of lace hit the right note.

Skirts are either slim maxis or flirty fun minis that often had bounce in each step. In this collection bust focus becomes important through contrast colors, and style lines that are referential to corsetry and bustier.

The mood was cheerful, fun and that life is a party. The models were vivacious obviously having fun! Cheers to Posen for the great diversity in castings on the runway. One of the rare shows that really reflect the diversity of New York City. We also caught Crystal Renn on the catwalk and although she is considered a plus size model, we don’t really see it! She did look great though :) Loved that the show ended with Posen in a fist pump of victory after the runway finale.


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