Monday, November 3, 2008

Dupli-CAUGHT: Jonathan Saunders

I was really excited when the Jonathan Saunders for Target Collection launched. I loved the color-block, silhouettes and prints. There were so many great prints but I was torn on the marble print as I liked it but something about it didn't sit well with me but I couldn't put my finger on it until now. Although Saunders used unique design silhouettes, and the marble print was not an exact copy the inspiration is clear.

Dries Van Noten images from NY

I had seen the marble print before, but only as I was reading a book about the printing techniques from Dries Van Noten Fall 2008 Collection did the pieces come together. For the Fall 2008 Collection, Dries Van Noten revisited a 1920s printing technique created by Swiss inventor Orbis Wirth. This method of printing was eventually stopped as it was very costly and inconsistent and could only print small amounts of fabric at a time. In collaboration with fabric mill Jakob Schlaepfer, however Dries Van Noten was able to recover some of the original wax rollers to create fabric for special pieces as well as duplicate the look with modern ink jet printing for the rest of the collection.

If you compare the prints in real life, the Jonathan Saunders version is done in primary colors and appears uniform/stagnant while the Dries Van Noten version has a sophisticated rich color pallate with many subtle variations that make the print seem alive.

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